Tutorial: Serouel M'douar - Algerian Urban Costume

So this part of the costume, the pants, are really easy, but it took me ages to find that out, because I couldn't find any desriptions of the cut of these particular pants (serouel in Algerian) that I never happened to see with my own eyes - all I had were photographs. 

The name - serouel m'douar - could have been a useful hint, if I had asked somebody. So the meaning of the name (m'douar means nothing else than "round") became clear to me after a couple of samples that I had tried to make. So here's the description.

You need upholstery fabric which is usually around 3 meters wide. Or you sew a piece which is at least twice as wide as the required length of your serouel (Does that make sense? Lenght: approx 1m; width 2-3m. It depends, how volouminous your serouel should look like and it depends of course on the characteristics of the fabric, stiif or soft, thick or thin).

Now fold your fabric twice. 

Cut out a quarter of a circle, or, if your serouel, like in this case, is longer than wide then the waist is the broadest part and the pants become slimmer towards the ankles in a rounded shape. A small piece between the feet is alredy united.

If you unfold the fabric now you should have a

two semicircular pieces eventually connected on the rounded side.

Pleat the waist, or simply gather it (pleats look less bulky).

Se the side seams and leave generous holes where you feet should go (leave at least 40 cm between them, otherwise you will not be able to walk!) 

Almost done. Waistband and hem at the feet are still missing, but the idea is clear.

Completed! The Kalbelia Adventure

I can't believe it. The Kalbelia costume is ready - after months of stitching and using up kilometers of trims. You can see the humble beginnings here. 

But now step by step - if you plan to make a costume like this yourself. Actually this costume was not very expensive in materials - I used very simple things that you can even find in your stash. But it was probably the most time-consuming project I ever made.

You need for the skirt:

2 (!) 3-tiers circular cotton skirts

The skirt you can see in the first post is actually only the first half of what I made. Then I realized that the skirt had to be wider so that it swirls beautifully.

Lots (!) of trims and ribbons. Cheap satin ribbons are the best. I cannot name the exact amount I used, but I used at least 25m of each colour.   

Eventually some repurposed fabric in bright colours - in this case for the blue stripes on the skirt and the yellow pieces on the shirt with the cut-out diamonds.

In my first post I explained how I cut out the diamonds - actually a second time I'd probably first cut the diamonds out and add the white rickrack trim with hand stitches first before stitching it on the skirt with the machine. But it works both ways.
The sequins have been glued on the skirt with fabric glue - you could sew them as well, of course, but I didn't want to spend much time.

Then you'll need an already existing cotton blouse. I added some more length with some more cloth - this is optional.
The microbeaded stripes were the most expensive parts of the costume. Maybe I'll try to make them myself one day, beadweaving shouldn't be that complicated. The patterns are simple and you can make those stripes using a beadloom or even without.
The veil is made of very simple synthetic organdy and I just I added a silver fringed trim and a green ribbon for contrast.
So this is the result of months of research, and of stitching. We are just waiting for the next performance!

Kalbelia Costume I: Needs a Lot of Patience

For an upcoming workshop of Kalbelia dance I threw myself into sewing a costume.

The skirt is the central piece as the dance is full of whirling and spinning (see the first picture).













With a readymade dance skirt from Hongkong purchased from here, lots of ribbons from my stock and some fabric to recycle the adveture began:

 
 


  The diamonds are cut out from the fabric and basted. A narrow white ribbon will cover the edges later.

Many many hours later: lots of greens and blues. Red, yellow and white will follow....

Afghanistan Everywhere: Grand Bazaar

Irresistible.
credits:
Photography by Begum Yetis
Styling by Dilara Fındıkoglu
Hair by Tayfun Kaydok
Makeup by Ufuk Celep
Model Kat Cordts @ Joy Models Istanbul

found via: theones2watch

Afganistan: And Tales of Daily Life

Picture by H. Kreutzmann

Today I finally managed to see this wonderful exhibition on Afghanistan in a small but very beautiful museum of natural history in Altenburg, in eastern Thuringia.
The exhibition features three aspects of the daily life from different tribes in different living spaces across the country. You have there the black tent of livestock breeding nomads, a reconstruction of a small house in the oasis of the river Andhkoy, as well as tools and clothes of gypsies who travel between urban settlements.

Picture by Steffen Graupmann

The combination of everyday artefacts and pictures from the sixties and from today was very touching and give a holistic impression of varieties and social changes and their interdependence from narrowing resources, which in Afghanistan is prominently water.
If yo happen to pass through Altenburg until the 30th of October make sure not to miss this exhibition!

Busy Days in Pune

In those very busy days we enjoyed shopping, driving to the market in those very cosy rikshaws...
... mingling with all those busy ladies...
... neither minding the torrid sun, nor polluted air nor crowded alleys and shops.
Choosing from the brightest colours...
... and all kind of goods.

Where the sacred and the profane are nearly indisdiguishable...

Unforgattable days in Pune, Maharashtra, India.

Pallavi Goenka: Indian Textile Tradition and Innovation

Pallavi Goenka is a young designer and she presents a fascinating blend of traditional indian textile tradition and innovation.
Her origins are in the colourful region of Rajasthan from where she gets always new inspiration and bright notes for her very special urban outfits.

She works with renowned artisians and craftsmen; this is visible in every single piece of her collection.
Pallavi Goenka is a Fashion Design graduate from SNDT Mumbai,in 1997. At the age of 18, Pallavi's first major step in the world of fashion was her store 'Pals Couture' in Kemps corner, Mumbai. In 2007 she launched her own brand Ktha, a blend of tradition and modernity.
The brand runs into pret, diffusion and couture. Currently, Ktha retails from various boutiques around India, most notably in Mumbai, Kolkatta, and Ahemdabad.

But this is not all: the multi-talented artist Pallavi works also in the field of painting and photography. Her paintings are bright and cheerful, and her photographs show her precise and observing gaze. So I end here with two more impressions and am looking forward to seeing more!



All pictures: Pallavi Goenka.
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Eastern Glances: Kenzo Spring 2011

I have been following Selyas' wonderful blog "Chaikhana" quita a long time. So as usual I hopped across her and was left breathless by these pictures - how could I not share that!
Company founder Kenzo Takada, a Japanese born designer, coined an ethno oriented look with flat patterns like those used for Kimonos. 2003 Sardinian Designer Antonio Marras took over, and the new collection shows a deep interest in rich oriental textiles and a completely non-western feminine ideal.

Multiple layered gowns in precious handpainted silks, damast and kelim recall carefully adorned brides, whose beauty shows rather in elegant postures than in a tight-fitting silhouette.



























Sophisticated constructions of cloth-adorned hats with tassels and fringes add a feeling of a crown and the whole impression is that of a cute doll. Turbans are knotted above a felt fez and Central Asian Suzani embroidery is combined with handwoven wool fabrics in earth tones.
I imagine those models walking majestically in their wonderful costumes, slowly, like silkworms in their multilayered coloured robes.



























For a completely different styling there are also artistically free form crocheted or lingerie inspired robes for fantasy or neo-Victorian princesses dressed in fancy treasures from an ancient dowry chest.
I'll come back often to contemplate those wonderful images dreaming of myself stitching and wearing such a dress... ;-)